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Часы и Tiffany

Часы и Tiffany

Звучит не особенно привычно. Все обычно отправляются в бутики Tiffany&Co. за заветными бирюзовыми коробочками с белой атласной ленточкой, в которых спрятаны украшения с бриллиантами и без. Однако, и создание часов всегда было неотъемлемой частью истории компании


 

Рено Прете

Об этом нам рассказал Рено Прете, новый вице-президент Tiffany на Ближнем Востоке и в Африке, во время проходившей в Дубае Недели часов.

«Сегодня мало кто знает, что Чарльз Льюис Тиффани занимался поставками в США часов от Patek Philippe, рассчитывая на весьма серьезных клиентов, – говорит Рено. – В XIX веке точные швейцарские часы были диковинкой на американском континенте и позволить их себе могли только самые состоятельные люди. Среди них был, например, американский банкир Генри Грейвз-младший, которому очень нравилась баснословно дорогая модель часов Supercomplication от Patek. Быстро поняв, что спрос на швейцарские часы растет с каждым днем, основатель Дома Tiffany Чарльз Тиффани решил начать выпуск собственных моделей. Для этого в 1874 году Tiffany & Co. открыла свою часовую фабрику и офис продаж на женевской Place de Cornavin. Это было очень в духе Тиффани: он считал, что формула успеха – это лучшие материалы плюс лучшие мастера. А лучшие часовые мастера, конечно же, работали в Женеве. Сегодня в архивах Tiffany представлено около 100 уникальных исторических часов. Это и карманные мужские, и женские ювелирные модели. Есть среди них и часы, которые создавались силами собственной женевской фабрики. Позднее Дом сотрудничал с разными швейцарскими мануфактурами, такими как Audemars Piguet, модели, об этом напоминающие, тоже есть в архивах Tiffany & Co. Собственная же часовая фабрика в Швейцарии просуществовала не очень долго. В какой‑то момент её продали, но все же свое часовое производство было у Tiffany & Co. еще в XIX веке!»

На мой вопрос, почему Дому Tiffany так важно было принять участие Неделе часов в Дубае и даже представить модель Tiffany CT60 на соискание самой престижной премии в области высокого часового искусства Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, Рено ответил так: «Нам это было важно, в первую очередь, затем, чтобы напомнить нашим постоянным и будущим клиентам о часов прошлом и настоящем Tiffany. Еще в далеком 1903 году были запатентованы женские часы со светящимися в темноте индикаторами времени и стрелками.

Было в нашей истории и немало часов, интересных с точки зрения дизайна. Среди них можно назвать весьма необычные ювелирные женские модели 1930‑х годов, например, с циферблатом из синего сапфира. Наша историческая коллекция постоянно пополняется с тем, чтобы современным дизайнерам было откуда черпать свое вдохновение. Прошли годы, и вот в 2015 году компания Tiffany выпустила уникальную серию моделей CT60, вдохновленную часовым наследием марки.

Эта коллекция отражает стремительность современной жизни, объединяющей ритм нью-йоркских улиц с пульсирующими столицами всего земного шара.

Patek Philippe
Новые часы Atlas
Tiffany & Co
Tiffany & Co
Tiffany & Co

В собрание CT60 от Tiffany вошли как женские, так и мужские часы, хотя, деление это весьма условно и зависит лишь от диаметра и декора корпуса. Работа над ними была начата нами два года тому назад, и сейчас, в рамках DWW 2015 мы с гордостью представили полученные результаты. Название коллекции составлено из инициалов имени Чарльза Тиффани (Charles Tiffany) и цифры 60, обозначающей «нью-йоркскую минуту». Поймите, для Tiffany & Co. это не просто 60 секунд. В нашей компании уверены, что время в Нью-Йорке течет иначе, чем где бы то ни было в мире. Одна минута здесь наполнена миллионом возможностей! И мы в Tiffany & Co. их используем на полную катушку. Наша модель Tiffany CT60 попала в шорт-лист Женевской премии, и это уже грандиозное достижение для марки, которую многие считают исключительно ювелирной».

Естественным продолжением отсчета нью-йоркского времени стали модели, посвященные часам Atlas, которые были установлены еще над первым бутиком Дома Tiffany. Это были одни из первых публичных часов в Нью-Йорке, по ним жители города когда‑то сверяли время.

Новые часы Atlas из коллекции 2015 года сохранили основные черты дизайна, свойственные всем моделям этой коллекции, – римские цифры и контрастную поверхность корпуса. Еще одна веха, которую подчеркивают и заново переосмысливают часовщики Tiffany в коллекции СТ60, модель золотых наручных часов, принадлежавших президенту США Франклину Рузвельту. В них он побывал на Ялтинской конференции 1945 года и вообще часто их носил. На задней крышке корпуса – памятная гравировка «Франклину Делано Рузвельту: с преданностью, уважением и любовью». Когда‑то эти часы друг подарил президенту Рузвельту на день рождения. Чарльз Тиффани был склонен утверждать, что «хороший дизайн делает хороший бизнес», поэтому, сделали вывод в компании, если часы времен 1945 года всё еще могут оказывать влияние на веяния XXI века, то они действительно были выдающимися. Кстати, оригинальные часы Рузвельта к Tiffany & Co. вернулись лишь несколько лет тому назад…

И всё же эти часы в Tiffany & Co. избрали в качестве прообраза для моделей новой коллекции не только потому, что у них столь интересная история, но и потому, что их дизайн показался специалистам крайне современным: большой корпус, циферблат с очень хорошо считываемыми цифрами, календарь. В новой коллекции была выпущена лимитированная нумерованная серия Tiffany CT60 всего из 60 экземпляров в корпусе из розового золота.

«Компания Tiffany & Co. гарантирует, что все её новые часы, как, впрочем, и те, что выпускались ранее, всегда были и будут лучшими спутниками в мире идеально точного измерения времени», – подводит итог нашей беседы Рено Прете и приглашает обязательно заглянуть перед Рождеством во флагманский бутик Tiffany & Co. в ТЦ The Dubai Mall, где в празднично оформленных витринах, наряду с бриллиантовыми украшениями, найдется достойное место и часам от Tiffany…

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